Gunkanjima, AKA Battleship Island
Many people visiting Nagasaki come here to see the atomic bomb museum and memorials around the city dedicated to peace. I had more than my fix of that when visiting Hiroshima so I went to a bunch of other places instead.
One being Gunkanjima, literal meaning "Battleship Island" it is a small island completely covered in the ruins of a mining city (coal) that was abruptly abandoned in 1974. Once the most densely populated place on earth, it's now a ghost town, showing the decay of what society leaves behind.
Roughly 15 kilometers from Nagasaki it is a popular tourist destination and also a set from the Bond film 'Skyfall'.
Despite most of the island being inaccessible with only a short walking path on the southwest of the island this place is a great place to photograph - for an eerily abandoned creepy feel.
The tour boat that I had organized to get to the island had only Japanese tourists and school children outnumbering me 1 to 60, and with no information provided in English I wanted to leave the group, I tried but they insisted I needed a guide. I suppose they didn't trust me. And yes I would have definitely jumped the fence.
There are rumors of a mass grave in the center of the island, hence why the government evacuated the island on a single day back in 1974.
Quickly getting back to the hostel to change I cycled up to Inasayama at dusk.
This mountaintop offers a full 360 degree view of Nagasaki City and harbor, and is a must-see site. The nighttime view of the city is called the "10 Million Dollar View" and ranked as one of the best 3 city night views in Japan. Using my GPS it navigated me up some extremely steep narrow paths through residential areas including multiple staircases until I eventually hit the main road to the summit. It was hilarious to cycle past (almost effortlessly) a pair of cyclists with head to toe spandex and $5k bikes struggling up the hill. I know this makes me sound cocky but cycling in casual clothes on an old touring bike that has been half way around the world past these guys with completely unnecessary gear makes me (and perhaps you) wonder, why?
Anyway, the view from the summit was pretty spectacular although the wind was a little too relentless whist trying to set my my photo equipment, it also tried to kill me on the descent too as it blew me into the other lane into oncoming traffic.
Next up, food!
During my time in Japan I find it difficult to eat out because one thing it is generally expensive and secondly because of my lack of understanding of the language I really don't know what I was going to get.
Today was an example of the latter but in no way was it a bad thing. Myself and a bunch of others from the hostel set off initially to go for all-you-can-eat sushi only to be disappointed that it was closed.
We ended up finding another place almost hidden from public eyes and offered sashimi. It was a little on the pricey side but well worth it, not only was the company great the locals we met gave me and the others free rounds of Saki and sushi. Also as a gift I received some (apparently) expensive tea from a man who was enthralled by my bicycle trip.
All in all a great afternoon and certainly a highlight of Japan for me.
One thing I forgot to mention was one of the sashimi dishes made from sea urchin; mentioning it now is making my mouth water, the texture and taste is out of this world and I highly recommend anyone to try it, it was served on rice and wrapped in seaweed.
Gunkanjima island
View of Nagasaki from Inasayama
Best thing I have ever eaten, Uni (Sea-Urchin) Raw and Sashimi style.
Leaving me with the Chef to thank.
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