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Friday, 27 September 2013

Two weeks in the Nordic country of ICELAND! 11th - 26th April 2013

*Edit* - for those who read this and are thinking that this is a wonderful thing that I met the girl of my dreams... i followed up seeing her and things did not work out between us. Sorry. Its such a shame.


I suppose I can start with saying that this place is wonderful, simply full of beauty from both what it has to offer, it's scenery and its people. Icelandic's are some of the kindest people I have encountered on my recent travels, meeting genuinely amazingly kind folk having hitch hiked a few times and meeting unbelievably helpful people I had a fantastic experience with every Icelandic person I came into contact with on this trip. 
This beauty comes at a price, and a very hefty one at that because pretty much everything you may want to do, eat and see is outrageously expensive, normally in these situations I would normally find some alternative means to travel to bring these costs down, this normally involves me  spending a few nights in my tent and cooking basic food; unfortunately for me the weather was in no means conducive to camping, although some days being sunny with a slight breeze the air temperature at night and with no exaggeration would (and does) freeze cascading water. 
When I first arrived in Reykjavik I met some cool travelers, people from all about the world who I quickly introduced myself to who then suggested to join them to go jump in the ocean, at first I thought this was a crazy idea, but I like crazy ideas and as I tell people about my philosophies of life to 'get involved' with whatever situation I joined them.  The god forsaken water was painfully cold - freezing your limbs to a point past shivering but the good news was that there was a thermal bath beside the ocean that was used to warm back up again. Put simply it was invigorating, to endure such torture wasn't a necessity but boy was I awake up after doing this even after a restless night at the airport the day before. 
Later on the same day I joined Nadja and Jason on the Golden Circle route that covered some points of interest that people visiting Iceland for a short time would try and cover. This involved the Geyser that named all other geysers of the world and also Gullfoss , a spectacular waterfall that cascades into an narrow valley where the frozen water forms steep ice shelves on the opposing walls. This afternoon trip was a great way to visit some of the sights nearby to Reykjavik and especially with the company of these two I had a great time.      
This is many of many road trips that I joined in on or put together to venture away from the capital and see the rapidly changing landscape of the country. This included the south road to the glacial lake with Jason, Blake, Nadja, BJ, David and Weibke divided into two cars and drove the route past many waterfalls, interesting rock formations, quaint villages and snow swept mountain passes. I got to be honest with this one but I thought the trip to the glacial lake wasn't worth the 4 hours of driving to get there, I'm glad I saw it and got the pictures of the area. 
the people of Iceland never really go out till weekends and weekday nightlife is almost non-existent, my second night in Iceland I got to experience how the people partied, at first it was a little strange as both of the bars I went to I saw things that would only occur at, lets say a gay bar - perhaps this is part of the culture - and trying to chat up some girls here just didn't work, it wasn't until I asked someone I found out that they were actually a gay bars (2 in a row :\). The group of us redeemed ourselves by hastily moving to a nightclub that offered straight people where we finished the night (or morning).
Having seen all the things I wanted to see in Reykjavik I wanted to venture north, I looked into ride sharing and found, by far, the best possible deal. It was a car offered by a guy in Reykjavik who needed a driver to drive north to one of the most secluded towns in Iceland named Isafjordur, this was precisely where I want to go and check out. So I met with the guy and he gave me the keys without question, without paperwork and without even checking my ID - this is what I mean by Icelandic's being such trustworthy and trusting people. 
I gathered up some people at the hostel and posted on the couch surfing forums that I needed to fill up the spare seats of the car. This is how I met the most incredible girl of all my travels but also the insane person, I am referring to two people here; Steffi, the amazing one is from Austria, a stunning, always smiling, adorable and flat out cool girl who instantly I fell for. As soon as I saw this girl I wanted her, and when I did approach her I blurted out a bunch of things incredibly quickly hoping I could convince her to join our crew to drive to the north west fjords. Steffi's English is good but she didn't understand much of what was coming out of my mouth so at first she declined the offer. It wasn't until afterwards when I explained things more slowly and clearly that she agreed and was excited to join us. Ill get back to Steffi in a little bit as I want to mention this other insane Danish woman who joined us also. 
Louise who I could tell from the get go wasn't all there, she seemed to be confused and indecisive about pretty much all things and kept on mentioning that she needed to sort out her life. At first and for most of the trip she was tolerable, I didn't really have a problem with her but when we arrived in Isafjordur she wanted me to stop at the airport where she wanted to check for flights back to Reykjavik, when she got back in the car she told us that if she did not get a flight back to the capital "drug dealers from Denmark who know where she is at all times will torture her if she didn't get the flight". This may sound crazy to many people and yet she came back to the car and sat contemplating what to do, the flight was leaving in a few short moments and she was undecided???  Well, if I were to be tortured if I didn't get the flight I wouldn't have anything to think about - Woman, just get on the fucking flight! 
Her time piss-farting about meant that she missed the flight and now according to her is going to be tortured. This was certainly one of the most mental situations that I have been involved in and yet I didn't have it in my heart or money in my wallet to have her leave the group as the following day we hired a 4x4 to drive around the fjords and over to Iceland's second largest city, Akureyri.
Driving around the fjords at this time of year can be dangerous as the 4 mountain passes can be hit by blizzards and strong winds which it did. The two others in the car were a young, pleasant but shy Korean girl named Lee and Uskuea, a Japanese crazy man who was good fun to have on the trip. When we were caught in the blizzard on the mountain pass where I couldn't see anything out the windscreen, crazyman Uskuea saved the day by guiding us along the road as he was windswept over what was suppose to be a Tarmac road. 
We stopped by many hot springs and thermal baths on this trip in the north and aside from Louise it was a great trip to see a lot of the country. 
Now, I can get back to what I was saying about Steffi, simply the most amazing girl I have met on my travels - no word of a lie. She really means that much to me, an affectionate stunning girl who would lighten anyone's day with her wonderful smile. 
I had the pleasure of spending a week with this girl cooking for, admiring and even spending a restless night in my tent on the side of the road (it was too cold to get any sleep) and honestly I could not have asked for anything or anyone better. I could go on singing praises about this girl but for your sake Ill continue on my experiences on Iceland. 
So, with this wonderful girl we spent a night in Akureyri where we had a drunken night out for cheap where we met many people some of which offered us a ride back to Reykjavik, like I said multiple times - people here are awesomely kind and good fun. 
We had one night back in Reykjavik before Steffi's flight to Vietnam so because her was in the early morning we hitched to the blue lagoon for the afternoon and part of the evening before we hitched again to the airport where we spent the night messing about on wheelchairs and in the bathroom until her flight... Our farewell was sad, she cried... I will miss her...The week with her was well spent and if I had the money I would not of hesitated to go with her to Vietnam and now I wish I did because on her second day there she was scammed out of €3000. I was the first person she contacted and I called her to console her, it's shitty but not the end of the world. I really hope things between me and her can be rekindled after 4 months apart because when I go back to Europe ill pop over the Austria to visit... Or maybe more. Time will tell. 
After Steffi left I had 3 days before my flight returning to Canada so I got in contact with one guy I met at the hostel who hosted people through couch-surfing and he was happy to have me stay with him. Adam, a Hungarian guy who lived in Iceland for many years was cool and very helpful, he constantly had couchsurfers stay with him and he took me about the town being very generous which helped me greatly as I was running low on cash. 
My last night in Reykjavik was interrupted by news that I was unable to work in Canada until my visa came through, hugely disappointed I returned to Adams to think over my options into the early morning. My next post will mention the follow up of the fuck-around with my visa and work. 
So, to sun things up about Iceland - Epic, wonderful, beautiful and stunning - these words I can also use for Steffi... I know it's corny but really I'm in love with this girl.

Edit - for those who read this and are thinking that this is a wonderful thing that I met the girl of my dreams... i followed up seeing her and things did not work out between us. sorry :(

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Thursday, 4 April 2013

And there we have it!

 

9250km from Oslo, Norway to Antalya, Turkey

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Totalling over 20,000 kilometers cycled around the world!



Cycling From Norway to Turkey


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01/04/2013 - Oslo to ... Back to Antalya Day 108.

Distance cycled: 111km from St. Paul's trail in the mountains to Antalya, turkey
Average speed: 14km/h
Moving time: 7h55m
Total distance: 9258km
Border X'ings: 22
Money spent: 20 lira


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Persistence, persistence, persistence. This is what it takes to travel the 9250km I have cycled the 17 countries in Europe and today was no exception. In fact today was one of the the most strenuous and physically challenging days of my life - I said in yesterday's post that I took an alternative route over the mountains towards Antalya thinking I could be smarter than Googles navigation system but I was wrong. Suggesting yesterday was terrible in terms of terrain was a complete understatement comparing it to today - I had to push my bike up a steep rocky incline by foot more than 700 meters in altitude to reach the top of the mountain pass. Thankfully though I had company, a German hiker named Andreas who had been hiking around the area for 2 weeks. Whilst i was profusely sweating as I tugged the weight of all my gear higher and higher Andreas informed me that the track we were on was part of the well known St. Paul's trail that extends from Antalya through the mountains 500km north towards the Lake District.
I don't think I would have managed the hike up the pass if it wasn't for Andreas, he was a distraction from how difficult it was, he seemed to manage it just fine but of course he didn't have a 40kg bicycle to force up the mountain.
Absolutely nackard when reaching the top I awarded the two of us my leftover dinner and snacks that Andreas was more than grateful for as he had only eaten bread with cheese and vegetable for the duration of his trek.
Leaving Andreas and thinking all was good and well as I had made it to the top of the pass was again another mistake, the road... well, if you can call it a road was utterly unsuitable for my method of transport, it's incredibly disheartening knowing that road is declining into a valley and you have to walk your bicycle over the rough and jagged track but at least it was easier than pushing it uphill.
I begged for an asphalt road so I could pick up my pace and hope to make my return to Antalya before the end of the day and my prayer was answered - a snaking unmarked road with little traffic lead me out of the mountains and towards the sea.
Joining the main highway I had the wind on my back and hastily made it to Antalya before nightfall.
What and epic day to finish this unbelievable bicycle adventure.
9250km of meeting fantastic people, conquering high mountain passes, experiencing many different cultures and cuisines and the major hiccup of crashing my bicycle breaking my collarbone that put a kink in my original plan although still being able to hit my goal of 20,000 km of cycling around the world.
All in all what an incredible and amazing experience - I've now cycled 1/2 the circumference of Earth!!! Booo-ya!!!

Sorry no photos as my SD card died!

Wednesday, 3 April 2013

31/03/2013 - Oslo to ... Back to Antalya Day 107

Distance cycled: 72.7km from Egirdir to somewhere between there and Antalya.
Average speed: 14.4km/h
Moving time: 5h02m
Total distance: 9148km
Border X'ings: 22
Money spent: 0 lira.


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As today was my second last day of this tour I became complacent thinking I could venture away from my plotted GPS route and taking the opposing direction for the signs pointing to Antalya. I wanted to take an alternative route to my final destination which of course is Antalya and boy did I screw up. By taking a dirt logging road i was taken on a very slow roller coaster of a road that twisted higher and higher along the mountains edge. This included a mixed bag of good and bad; the good, there was little to no traffic meaning I had the road to myself, the views of the nearby lake as the sun was going down was marvelous and... that seems to be it. Now the bad, it was a very steep rough dirt road, there is the possibility that this road won't lead me to Antalya, I thought my life was in peril because some miners digging for marble above we're causing rockslides of enormous boulders that tumbled down onto the road that I was cycling on (what a way to die) and I climbed up the what seemed to be an endless and most difficult climb of this trip of 700meters.
In hindsight the bad certainly outweighed the good but it's all part of the adventure.

 

Sorry no photos as my SD card died!

30/03/2013 - Oslo to ... Back to Antalya. Day 106

Distance cycled: 31.3km around lake Egirdir to Egirdir
Average speed: 18.7km/h
Moving time: 1h40m
Total distance: 9075km
Border X'ings: 22
Money spent: 40 lira.


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It's so pleasant to camp beside a lake, a wonderful experience that people should take advantage of to get away from the rush of their everyday life. I didn't cover much distance today because I wanted to check out Egirdir, a town popular due to boat trips on the lake and the many hiking trails that surrounds the area including a very historic route called St. Paul.  On the way to the town I saw some other cyclists fully loaded with bags, naturally I hopped over to the other side of the road a greet them. I only spent half an hour with the Austrian couple who had spent 6 months on the saddle but they were good people who I would have love to join if I were to be going in the same direction.  I checked into Lale Pension which was a hostel with a dorm but was very pricy at 30 lira for a dorm bed, I thought I would make up the price by eating past the point of being full for the buffet breakfast in the morning.  Although I wanted to get some sunset shots of the towns peninsula, resting my head down didn't do me any favors as I slept into the early evening where I met a group of people who were developing an iOS app for the hiking in the area we stayed up chatting for a while until it was past my bedtime.  On a side note. Normally I like to make these posts more interesting but I'm having difficulty today... Maybe because I am exhausted, 106 days of cycling would do it.

Sorry no photos as my SD card died!

29/03/2013 - Oslo to ... Back to Antalya Day 105

Distance cycled: 91.2km from
Average speed: 18.8km/h
Moving time: 4h50m
Total distance: 9044km
Border X'ings: 22
Money spent: 20 lira.
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And there we have it, I am now giving myself a pat on the back as there is no one here to do it for me because I have accomplished an amazing feat; bicycling the distance of 1/2 the circumference of Earth! 25 countries in total and over/through a huge variety of terrain and weather. Achieving this physical and mental goal would have would have been difficult, if not impossible if it hadn't been for the people who helped me on my way; thinking about this as my odometer clicked over (although its digital) to what is 9,000km on this trip evoked the happiest of emotions even bringing a tear to my eye... Or it could have been the wind as I descended from the mountain pass I tackled this morning.
I couldn't have asked for a better day either, the sun was out, the highland plains I endured over the past couple of days were finally over, more generosity from the locals/ police officers and ended the afternoon skirting around the edge of Egirdir lake where I stopped for a quick dip whilst the remaining light of the day dissipated over the lake behind the mountains.
100% content.
...
But it's not over, I still have to make the 150km back to Antalya and saying I have cycled 1/2 the circumference of Earth seems half-assed (in my opinion), I now must cycle the other 20,000km to claim the world!

Sorry no photos as my SD card died!

28/03/2013 – Oslo to ... Back to Antalya. Day 104

Distance cycled: 86.4km from Konya to Ortaca
Average speed: 17.4km/h
Moving time: 4h58m
Total distance: 8952km
Border X'ings: 22
Money spent: 10 lira.


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Thankfully this is the last day of the less than appealing plateau region of Turkey; the last couple of days have returned me nothing other than head-on wind and the onset of a mental breakdown due to complete boredom from the vast nothingness of my surrounds.
Although having said that I did have locals entertain me today with not only with their generosity where I didn't have to pay for tea, lunch or Internet access but also one guy beside his truck who was... um, how do I put this... giving his wrist a workout when i unluckily passed by but when I passed he got back in his truck to drive ahead of me to do it again... The only explanation I have is that he was gay or must have thought I was a girl.
Stopping twice today to use the Internet I was shrouded with locals wanting to meet me and add them as a friend on Facebook. Normally I would say no but they were quite insistent, they will have fun browsing my friends lists and photos as they didn't hesitate to do so as soon as I reluctantly added them.
The Turks using google-translate today I was again asked the typical questions that are usually gestured when I encounter the locals, surprisingly it's always in this order:
"What is your name?"
"Where are you from?"
"How old are you?"
"Are you married?"
"Do you have a girlfriend?"
"Chai?"
They honestly can't understand that someone my age isn't married, judging by their reaction they feel perhaps sorry for me but they understand that it's a different world out there.
Over the last few days I have seen many workers lighting fires to burn the copious amounts of plastic garbage that litters the gutters, sides of the road, towns and countryside. This begs one question, why aren't the locals taught that littering is bad for the environment? Burning the plastics especially, given it isn't nearly as bad as in India but still it's awful. *Sigh*

 

Sorry no photos as my SD card died!