31/01/2015 - 01/02/2015 - The incredible hospitality of the Browne Family.

 

As I mentioned in yesterday's post, Helen, the mother of three was kind enough to allow Marlieke and I to stay for a night at their place in Welcome Bay over looking Tauranga and Manguanui mountain; before contacting them a couple of days ago they didn't even know we existed yet they directed us to their home and allowed us to enter even though nobody was home - they didn't arrive back till the late hours of the evening.
As it turned out Helen and Philip (the father) often let guests through warm-showers stay with them and the reviews from the others listed on the website were listed as all glowing reviews.
This family could quite possibly be the most friendly, generous and open armed people on the planet.
Marlieke and I ended up spending longer than anticipated as the weather turned and wasn't so conducive for cycling.
At times the weather did clear up and Marlieke and I climbed to the top of mount Manguanui a 230m mountain that sprouts out the top of a small peninsula surrounded by bays and offered an awesome 360 degree panoramic view of the coastline, ocean and city.
I also helped out the Browne family with some household chores in exchange for their hospitality - with something I had never done before, hedge trimming - it went well, much better than I expected. I also cooked up a meal for one of the nights, a plethora of Asian food that turned out to be just enough for the family and another warm-showers guest who was invited to stay.
It was an absolute pleasure to have met the Browne family and we were very happy to cross paths with them because if we didn't Marlieke and I would have spent a lot of time cycling in the rain.
Truly awesome people.

30/01/2015 - Cycle Touring New Zealand - Day 23 - Big trucks and tiny shoulders.

 

Distance cycled: 68.7km from Waihi to Welcome Bay, North island, New Zealand.
Average speed: 16.2km/h
Moving Time: 4h15m
Elevation Ascended: 706m
Total Distance on Current trip: 1,481km
Distance until I have cycled the circumference of Earth: 6,926km
Money spent: $28

Yesterday was spent entirely on bicycle trails however today was the exact opposite, cycling on a busy highway with logging trucks and semi's but the worst thing about this was that the shoulder was awful and at times non existent.
Unfortunately there wasn't an alternative road leading to Mt. Maunganui which was our destination for the day so we pushed on alongside the constant flow of traffic and large vehicles on highway 2.
Currently I am not a fan of the tires I have mounted to my bicycle as they seem to be prone to punctures especially when the shoulder is often covered in small sharp objects like glass and rocks. Right now my tally for puncture repairs in NZ over 3 weeks is 4 when Japan I only experienced one or two over 2 months.
On this trip Marlieke and I have tried only once to use warm-showers.org to contact other cycle-touring enthusiasts for accommodation and so today we tried again and we were lucky to have Helen and Philip host us, they lived a few kilometers outside of Mt. maunganui in an area called Welcome Bay and lived near the top of a hill overlooking the bay and surrounding area.
Weirdly but kindly they welcomed us into their home without even being there and told us they would return in the late hours of the evening. How kind of them.

29/01/2015 - Cycle Touring New Zealand - Day 22 - Cycling the bike trail from (near) Thames to Waihi

Distance cycled: 59.5km from Pipiroa to Waihi, North island, New Zealand.
Average speed: 14.6km/h
Moving Time: 4h4m
Elevation Ascended: 306m
Total Distance on Current trip: 1,412km
Distance until I have cycled the circumference of Earth: 6,995km
Money spent: $50

I have now found my new favorite fish, it's flounder; Marlieke and I were offered some for breakfast this morning where we were readying ourselves to leave Pete and Gales place. I had to cook it up using my broken stove that was working at 200% and as flames spurted 20cm high I knew it was time to make another (Pop can drive). Still, the fish was delicate yet tasty and I will certainly get hold of this fish again when I next encounter it.

At going today we fought some of the worst head and cross wind imaginable we spent most of the day in a bicycle trail that ran from Kopu to Paeroa and through a gorge to Waihi. It was a dedicated cycle trail and it took us through some lovely scenery, basic foot (cycling) bridges and even a kilometer tunnel through a mountain. I suggest for anyone cycling through this tunnel a flashlight because doing so without is somewhat unnerving.
It was a fun day to enjoy with little to no climbing up steep gradients, we met a whole bunch of friendly and happy people, something that New Zealand is renown for but also some strange people too.
Lunch consisted, like most days of a pie and coke but today was a treat and we splurged on some delicious waffle coned ice cream in Paeroa.
The bicycle trails are well marked along the route and the gravel is packed down well enough that anyone with "thin" (700x38) tires like mine will not have an issue.
Making it into Waihi we were lucky to find a free camping area out front of the small novelty train station that ran passengers "tourists" to Waikino.
It was another awesome day to be moving about on two wheels and by far the best way to see the beautiful landscapes between Paeroa and Waihi.

 

Flounder for brekky!!!

a neat bridge crossing

Llamas in NZ!?

28/01/2015 - Cycle Touring New Zealand - Day 21 - Not the best of days.

Distance cycled:  75.9km from Clevedon to Pipiroa, north island, New Zealand
Average speed: 15.7km/h
Moving Time: 4h49m
Elevation Ascended: 457m
Total Distance on Current trip: 1,353km
Distance until I have cycled the circumference of Earth: 7,054km
Money spent: $2

Marlieke was happy to cycle the second part of the day because of it being flat however we got some serious headwind which soon frustrated us. This, along with a flat tire on my bike, the lack of places to camp because of the bare open flat landscape and me feeling ill from either dehydration or exhaustion, today was a full-on day.
On top of all this we spent the morning cycling the onsets of sudden downpours leaving us to sporadically and frantically search for some shelter under a tree.
After such a... day... I was looking forward to some good food I was keen to cook up when we finally managed to find a place to sleep in a van can't room at the back of the only open shop in the sparsely populated town of Pipirua. Pete and Gale were kind enough to help us out. Anyway, as I was saying, after settling into this room I began to cook up a vegetable and vermicelli soup which at first was fine but my stove and stand acted up and we lost a lot of it when it fell to the ground. Having salvaged what I could Marlieke accidentally added a shit tone of chilli to the mix making it nearly inedible.
Let's just say it wasn't the best of days.

Also, As my back was and is still killing me I did want to spend some time bathing in what I understood was a natural hot spring; we went to check out Miranda hot springs, only to be disappointed but it being a heated swimming pool set at an extortionate rate of $14 pp! Screw that!
There was nothing natural about this hot spring because a sign read "if there is a power outage customers will not be reimbursed". What a gimmick!

27/01/2015 - Cycle Touring New Zealand - Day 20 - Getting out of Auckland, again!

Distance cycled: 46km from New Lynn, west Auckland to Clevedon, New Zealand.
Average speed: 14.6km/h
Moving Time: 3h08m
Elevation Ascended: 652m
Total Distance on Current trip: 1,277km
Distance until I have cycled the circumference of Earth: 7,130km
Money spent: $5.50

Although my back still wasn't anywhere near the condition necessary for cycling it was time to leave Auckland and continue on the roads leading south.
At first I struggled with the pain in my back muscles but with frequent stops and an effort not to exert myself to day went rather well.
Marlieke still struggled on the hills surrounding the center but her efforts were certainly an improvement from when we began the trip 3 weeks ago. Two big thumbs up to her!
The change from suburb residential housing to farm land was instantaneous, it was like Marlieke put "like crossing into another world". This is the fun about traveling at bicycle speed, you see these changes; I am sure you would in a car too but you are encapsulated in a box where as cycling you breathe in the change of atmosphere - just better in my opinion.

 

Relaxing time with Caroline and James in West Auckland - 24/01/2015 - 26/01/2015

Shark burgers, yum yum!

Our stay with Caroline and James was suppose to be short and for only two nights as we had to continue southward to visit and see all the sights towards the South Island but I managed to pull a back muscle making me almost completely immobile; any effort used to move my back resulted in excruciating pain but pathetically I managed to get it cycling outside of their house when testing the new break pads I installed on my bike. I did nothing out of the ordinary and I ended up being a cripple for two nights. 

This wasn't such a bad thing as both Caroline and James were amazingly hospitable and are awesome cooks. These two are now our favorite people in New Zealand, despite Caroline being Australian and James, British. 

Before my injury I had to repair my bicycle from the devastating results of cycling on shitty washboard gravel unsealed roads a few days ago, my rear hub was ruined and needed replacement and the most cost effective way to do so was to replace the rim, spokes and hub setting me back $130 down from $170 (including brake pads) because the guy in the bike shop that had the wheel in stock was very kind - thanks Moses! 

To fix my bike I did have to cycle to Manukau 50 odd kilometers from Caroline's place with my near broken bike but thankfully I had made it without issue. 

Chilling, eating well and drinking a fair amount of booze was exactly what Marlieke and I both needed here. It was a fantastic stay!

 

Moses, an awesome dude who enthusiastically repaired my bike!

Funny to find this sign in the center of Auckland

23/01/2015 - Cycle Touring New Zealand - Day 19 - Return to Auckland.

Distance cycled: 56km from Rod's place in Helensville to Carolines place in west Auckland.
Average speed: 14.3km/h
Moving Time: 3h55m
Elevation Ascended: 696m
Total Distance on Current trip: 1,177km
Distance until I have cycled the circumference of Earth: 7,230km
Money spent: $60 for food and booze

Although my GPS usage skills put us a little off track it was all smooth sailing getting into west Auckland to visit an old friend of mine.
Caroline whom I went to both primary school and high school with and hadn't seen in over a decade invited both Marlieke and I to stay with her.
We arrived with every intention to cook up some food but ended chowing down on the delicious BBQ that was prepared for our arrival.
It was fantastic to reminisce with Caroline about our younger years remembering the ridiculousness of those who attended school with us.
Marlieke was not bored about this because, although I didn't remember, Caroline was Dutch and had a variety of food from holland making Marlieke incredibly excited.
It was a fantastic evening of chit chat, awesome food and perhaps a little too much to drink. But most importantly for Marlieke a proper bed to sleep in for a few nights before we set off further south.

 

Sorry, no pictures as there was nothing of interest on this trip nack to Auckland.

22/01/2015 - Cycle Touring New Zealand - A day of relax and the jolliest man in NZ.

 

Loading our bikes on the boat

 

The missing link between Pouto to Helensville is joined by the happiest and most cheerful man Imaginable. Rodney for six days a week would take novice and avid fishermen/woman out on the harbour to fish for kingfisher, snapper, shark and a variety of other finned animals. He also would take people like us, cycle tourists across the bay shaving off a considerable length of road around the bay. 

I know yesterday I was fed up with the relentlessly awful road 23km from Pouto where it was terribly loose gravel but from the moment of meeting Rod the journey getting here was worth it. 

Marlieke and I took the morning and and early afternoon off for some time to relax and recharge both ourselves and our belongings until Rod's boat showed up on the beach where our belongings were passed up aboard the ship. 

The majority of the 18 people aboard the boat were taking a day from their service from the air force and were friendly people but as soon as we left and set off into the choppy harbour I started suffering from sea sickness - the main reason why I hate traveling over water. 

Spending several hours whilst the air force personnel caught their fish and stored them away in their "chilly bins" aka "eskie" or "cooler" we finally entered a less rough area of the harbour where I eventually started feeling better. 

Although being sick the experience of the boat trip was well worth it with the inclusion of Rod inviting both Marlieke and myself to his place in Helensville for both dinner and a place to sleep. 

What a top bloke! And Shelley, his wife 

The beach of Pouto

Marlieke looking pretty as always

A quick filleting session of a shark on the side of the boat

21/01/2015 - Cycle Touring New Zealand - Day 18 - For the sake of potentially breaking your bicycle, don't come this way.

Distance cycled: 47km with 10km help from a local man from Dargaville to Pouto, North island, NZ
Average speed: 13.2km/h
Moving Time: 4h19m
Elevation Ascended: 759m
Total Distance on Current trip: 1,119km
Distance until I have cycled the circumference of Earth: 7,288km
Money spent: $14

This road down the peninsula from Dargaville to Pouto is a definite no no for any cyclist thinking that this route is a good alternative to going around the largest harbour in the Southern Hemisphere. Marlieke and I were able to make it but only with the help from a kind local who often picked up the bone-shaken cyclists on route to this small town.
With plenty of logging traffic this road is not only unsafe but also not very well maintained, the last 23km is almost all loose gravel with some small sections that are tarmac which even motorists would find relieving after repositioning any loose objects, and perhaps limbs that have come loose.
Unfortunately for me I have experienced the worst with my rear hub now misaligned  and will very soon be needing a replacement.
I cannot stress enough how awful this road can get and my opinion would be to cycle the extra 100 or so kilometers around the harbour.
On the plus side, the town of Pouto is pleasant with friendly locals working together to look after the town hall which is part of the campground, however there are no shops but this is part of the quaintness and seclusion of this area.

 

Apparently its good fishing in the area

20/01/2015 - Cycle Touring New Zealand - Day 17 - Kiwi hospitality

 

Distance cycled: 43km from Kai Iwi lakes to just south of Dargaville, North island, NZ
Average speed: 11.7km/h
Moving Time: 3h39m
Elevation Ascended: 467m
Total Distance on Current trip: 1,072km
Distance until I have cycled the circumference of Earth: 7,335km
Money spent: $40

Our time at Kai Iwi lakes was short but even just the few hours of relaxation from waking up till when we left around midday was enough to revitalize our systems to hop back on the saddle and continue.
Unfortunately both Marlieke and I are stubborn and did not want to go back the way we came, meaning we would have backtracked; instead we took the alternative route following the Babylon coastal road which is something I would not recommend for people cycling. It was what the kiwis refer to as metal road but for you me and the rest of the world this means gravel and not the nice type, the type that would kill a car let alone two loaded bicycles. The descents on this road  would be taken just as slowly as the rate we would climb but slowly, surely and after the 14km we finally sang out a sigh of relief because we had made it back to the main road that offered a smooth asphalted  surface for us to cherish despite suffering the symptoms of Parkinson's for several kilometers after.
Entering into the town of Dargaville we stopped by the tourist information office where Sue suggested an alternative route for us to take, a ride south to the end of the peninsula and a fishing charter boat would take us across the largest harbour in the Southern Hemisphere where we would disembark at the south end close to Auckland meaning we wouldn't have to cycle whatsoever on the dangerous highway 1.
The charter boat does not run regularly so finding out that the ferry was either Thursday morning or afternoon we were good to go not needing to hurry.
A quick bite to eat and grocery shop sent us on our way but the influx of locals questioning our cycle route down to the tip of the peninsula slowed us. It was kind and friendly of all who stopped us as essentially they saw two cyclists heading 60km to a dead end but as a huge positive we met a lovely woman who invited us to her house only 100 meters from where she had stopped us.
Michele and John were very hospitable, playing up a steak dinner and great conversion but also with the inclusion of me shooting a rabbit with a .22 on their farm - random I know.
We set up our tent on the deck as the Mosquitos were emerging and went to sleep.
This was certainly a pleasant surprise for Marlieke as it is the first time in this trip she has experienced the amazing hospitality of locals, let's hope we get more of this.

19/01/2015 - Cycle Touring New Zealand - Day 16 - Miserable Marlieke

 

Distance cycled: 75.5km from Omapare to Kai Iwi lakes, North island, NZ
Average speed: 12.7km/h
Moving Time: 5h58m
Elevation Ascended: 1627m
Total Distance on Current trip: 1,029km
Distance until I have cycled the circumference of Earth: 7,378km
Money spent: $43

.

Marlieke did me proud today, I really wanted to get to the Kai Iwi lakes 74km from where we left this morning and despite the pains of cycling in her ass and legs we made it to a wonderful spot offering a lake that is the purest of all in northern NZ. To get here we strained ourselves up mountains, through forests across baron highland farmland, into valleys and amongst cut blocks.
It was a long day and Marlieke being sweaty and sunburnt really really did not enjoy it.
The distance we cycled today was perhaps too far for her especially the terrain being as it was. We will take it easy tomorrow and give her body time to rest.
The lakeside campsite offered the basics and at $10 each was worthwhile as this place is simply awesome.
I can guarantee that we won't leave here till at least the early afternoon tomorrow.

 

The Mighty Kauri Tree

Kai Iwi Lake